Don't – Try to bond if you have had a bad day. Be prepared for the potential that the resident bunny may become defensive or aggressive at first. Don't – Hold a bonding session in the resident bunny's territory until after the bunnies spend at least 30 minutes together in neutral space. Do – Interact with the bunnies, but give equal attention and provide a positive and relaxed atmosphere. Is one rabbit jealous you are interacting with the new bunny/resident bunny? Is he mad you just gave his favorite toy to the other? Is the rabbit stressed and ready to stop for the day? Do – Make the effort to think like a bunny. 
Do – Expect that there will be bumps and setbacks. Do – Be prepared for this to take several months. Make sure the cages are not close enough for them to be able to bite each other. They will get used to seeing each other and to each other's scent if they are close to one another. Do – House the rabbits separately but close together. They'll associate the other rabbit with a sense of security, as opposed to carrying bad memories around with them. The noise and movement will be slightly frightening to the bunnies and they may snuggle up and draw comfort from each other, creating positive memories of one another. 
A laundry basket on top of a dryer that is on. If the bunnies show any signs of aggression, try: A bathroom the resident bunny has not been in. A pen in an area of the house your rabbit is not usually in. Make the space small enough so you can control the interactions, and make sure there are no small spaces where a bunny could get trapped. Try to eliminate the possibility of any territorial behavior by choosing introductory spaces that are as different from your bunny's territory as possible. Rabbits are extremely territorial, so you should always introduce rabbits, regardless of sex or age, in a neutral space first. The importance of neutral space in bonding If they're separated and one rabbit comes back with a different smell or change in health, they may reject each other and begin fighting. If one rabbit needs to go to the vet, both need to go. Once the rabbits have bonded, DO NOT separate them. Rabbits that are not fully bonded need to be kept separate when you are not with them. If the rabbits have a bad experience, or if one of the rabbits is elderly or has health considerations, you may need to take it slower, or take some time off. 
The more often you work with them, the quicker the process will progress (usually). Work with the rabbits daily for at least 15 minutes. This will be a harder relationship to build, but it can be done. Separate the rabbits immediately to prevent them from hurting each other.
Also uncommon, but possible, is outright fighting. The bunnies may groom each other or cuddle with each other. Less common, but possible, is love at first sight. It will likely stop or lessen over time as the rabbits' relationship solidifies. Mounting is a form of communication and a way of establishing dominance. The tables may turn later! Make sure both rabbits' noses can be seen so they are not biting in sensitive areas during the interaction. This is OK as long as the rabbit on the bottom (submissive) is accepting it. Sometimes one rabbit mounts the other. If chasing occurs, they may need a longer introduction period before they fully bond and will need more work/attention to build the relationship. They may approach each other and sniff but will not groom each other. The most likely outcome is tentative friendship. When two bunnies first meet, several outcomes may occur. An initial fight could hinder future bonding success.īunnies have very different personalities. A squirt of water on the nose can often prevent an aggressive behavior if it's done before the act begins, but is usually ineffective once a fight has begun. You may want to wear thick gloves and a long-sleeved shirt for initial bonding sessions in case a fight ensues. Introductions should be done in a neutral space to minimize the occurrence of these territorial behaviors. Rabbits are extremely territorial, and may exhibit behaviors such as chinning, and urinating, chasing, batting, biting, or mounting. Males can stay fertile for up to six weeks after neutering and may still exhibit hormonal behavior during this time. This allows for the rabbit to heal and for his/her hormones to balance. Wait 2-4 weeks after the surgery before attempting introductions. Bonding is generally easier when rabbits have been sterilized. Before introducing two rabbits, both should be spayed or neutered.
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